A vast majority of modern regulators are “nitrox ready”, in that they can safely deliver air with 02 consisting of up to 40% of the blend. However, because O2 is combustible, certain build and material specifications are required for regulators when using +40% 02 blends. They also have different servicing requirements.

Most divers are adventurous people, and therefore, will dive when travelling. Today, airlines are becoming more strict than ever on weight allowances, and therefore, the weight of the regulator set must be considered. Some regulators perform well, but can be quite heavy. Others might be lighter, but not as robust because of lighter, weaker materials. Titanium regulators offer toughness and are light-weight, but demand a premium. Finding out where a diver sees themselves diving most will also help positively influence their decision.

There are BCDs tailored specifically for women. It should be noted that the difference is to meet a woman’s contours, especially where the shoulder straps come down in the front. For some women, these contours aren’t as pronounced as in others, and therefore this style of BCD may not be as appropriate for them. Whilst these can add a level of comfort and fit in some women, it will ultimately come down to each individual. Also, the female diver will want to consider what type of diving they see themselves doing, as many are a great choice for the recreational diver, but may be less appropriate for tec diving.

For many, traditional rental BCDs may be all that some divers are familiar with. It may also have been a while since they first became certified, so may have forgotten how to properly adjust a BCD to best fit them. Others may have never been properly shown how a BCD should be worn. A common mistake is to tighten the shoulder straps as tightly as possible. These should only be adjusted as needed to allow the waist strap to fall into the correct place. This is typically between the belly button and the torso. Some with a larger gut may find the waist strap (and cummerbund if on that model) is more comfortably worn further down, more like a belt. Divers need to remember that this also should not be made as tight as possible. If done so, and the BCD is a traditional jacket style, then the strap may become even tighter, leading to discomfort and even nausea. Also, many forget that most sternum straps are adjustable. It should be a sternum strap, not a throat choker. This also doesn’t need to be tightened as much as possible. Adjustments will likely need to be made in the water, as weight displacement changes, and with some BCDs, the straps may slightly loosen when saturated in the water. This shouldn’t affect sizing up a BCD in store, though.

As an experienced diver, you should be able to tell which size is most appropriate for the customer. If you have any doubts, it may be worthwhile to consult a colleague. It is worth noting that if a customer has doubts about your assessment, you can remind them that some brands (all of AUP brands) have a 30 day guarantee, where they could potentially switch the product out if they did find it truly unsuitable. Provided you have identified their needs and sized them properly, this switch will likely never occur, but if it does, AUP is committed to helping dive shops cater to their customers in this manner.

These BCDS are quite specialised, and many only cater for sidemount divers. This type of diving requires its own course, and is usually to facilitate some type of specialised diving, such as cave, tec, or wreck. Also, there are those that prefer it due to comfort, no weight on the back, and always having a second air source (i.e. solo or independent divers). This type of diving gives the diver a more horizontal profile, which can be great for swimming in between bedrock layers or through wreck confines. By having the versatility to move dive tanks more freely, tighter spots can be travelled through.

There are differences in models, which can be important even for sidemount courses. For instance, PADI requires that a diver has a dual bladder sidemount BCD should they take this course, but SDI/TDI only requires a single bladder if the diver is diving a drysuit.

Some BCDs cater for both sidemount and traditional, such as the SMS 100, whereas others, such as the Katana/Katana II are built solely for sidemount and are more streamlined, reducing drag, for even easier movement in confined spaces. Many have inflator hoses positioned differently than traditional BCDs, as the orientation of air within the BCD and the manoeuvrability a diver has are different for this type of diving. All come with D rings positioned for where tanks will be attached, with some more suited for multiple tanks/steel tanks as they have greater lift capacity. Other accessories can also be added, such as butt plates or pouches.

Note: Many wing BCDs can be modified for sidemount, but this generally shouldn’t be recommended for someone just starting out. There can be liabilities, errors in judgment/placement, and the BCD can be compromised.

Part of the reason there is so much choice in the marketplace is because of the innovation implemented into the BCDs of today. In addition to comfort and style, the extra features and benefits offered suit different preferences of how to dive. We will be covering weight systems, inflators, cam band styles, mounts/D rings, bungee systems, and strap designs.

The standard Cam band will work for any diver, but there are some easier, more stable ones on the market. The standard cam band can be subject to some wobble. They may be harder to lock into place if the pulled strap isn’t lined up well enough with the strap around the tank, as it interferes with the buckle. The webbing can slightly expand when wet, loosening the hold on the tank, which is why it is best to wet the webbing first.

To address wobble, some BCDs have two cam bands. Others have cam bands designed to hold the tank in place more firmly

To address webbing interfering with the buckle mechanism, metal cam buckles have been introduced to eliminate webbing interference. With some of these models, just be careful that your fingers don’t interfere instead…

To address webbing expansion, some manufacturers have changed the material of the band completely. Atomic’s cam band system addresses all of these issues, as the ratcheting CAM-LOK tank band won’t expand/contract, is made to be a firm tank holder, and works much like snowboard bindings. This also eliminates any weaving of webbing through buckles.

This is fairly self-explanatory, but having the right ways to mount accessories can make diving easier. D rings allow for accessories to be easily clipped on to. D rings at the hip allow for gauges and/or SMBs to be clipped into place.  Also, grommets in a BCD to mount your knife can be a great way to carry this tool, whilst remaining streamlined and not taking up any pocket space. It’s also more accessible. Just be sure to check grommet hole distance against your knife mounting system.

BCDs can be made out of many materials, and here are a few of the most common found:

Nylon

Nylon is a fabric which is woven from man-made fibres – think a type of sturdy woven plastic. One of the first commercial uses of nylon was in women’s stockings, which is why they’re still called that today. Nylon fabric has many uses, such as parachutes and tents. As it is a synthetic, there have been many different types of nylons produced over the years.

Fadeless Nylon

As the name would suggest, it is more resistant to fading. Many times, materials, and plastics in particular, fade due to UV exposure or aging. This type of nylon should have a much longer “unfaded” lifespan that other nylons.

Ballistic Nylon

This form was created by DuPont during World War II, with its original intended purpose being to protect aircraft personnel from shrapnel, bullets, and other ballistic impacts. In other words, it’s really tough. A big difference in this material is the weave, built for a high tear strength.

Cordura

Cordura is a collection of fabric technologies, and can differ in the materials combined, but are usually made of nylon, and possibly blended with cotton or other natural fibres. Because of their tough abrasion resistance and high tear resistance, Cordura is used often in military and outdoor equipment intended for extended use (backpacks, tents, etc.)

What is Denier?

Pronounced “dhenieer”, this represents what fibre thread was used, and does not necessarily represent the strength, but the weight, or density, of the fabric. The higher the denier, the bigger the yarn, and the heavier the fabric. For instance, Cordura material made with the same denier as another material could be more abrasion resistant (and typically is) due to the weave and combination of materials. That being said, an item with 1680D Nylon/PU would have a greater tear resistance to a 1050D Nylon/PU

Bio-Flex

This is a patented material, marketed as “a living fabric”, as it stretches, flexes and conforms to your body. The material can stretch whilst remaining airtight as well. That makes for the ability to use a smaller air cell with the BCD’s bladder, creating less bulk and drag underwater while achieving a high volume of lift. This material can be found in the Excursion and the Bio-Lite BCDs

Double Laminated Polyurethane Coated Fabric

Found on the Atomic BC1, this is a custom matte finish fabric, which is incredibly tough and sheds water. The result is a BCD which is extremely durable, and practically dry when exiting the water. This is particularly helpful when watching weight for traveling.

Warranties are important to factor in, as some may be for a couple years, others can be limited lifetime warranties. This can be important to the diver, and can influence their decision.

Consoles, being attached to the regulator set, offer some advantages. These are typically attached to the HP hose, either digitally reading the PSI/Bar, or in a “boot”, attached to an analog SPG (when non-air integrated). Compasses can also be on these units. For dive course gear and rental, they offer simplicity when managing inventory and when keeping track of profiles of students. New divers may like the familiarity of these units. Some experienced divers also like these set-ups, as they offer some simplicity.

Wrist computers come in a few different styles. The most popular is a watch style, which is more streamlined, can be worn as a watch for everyday purposes, and is smaller/more lightweight. There are also “puck” computers, which are dive computer modules which can either fit into the “boot” on the console or in a wrist strap “boot”. There are also larger display wrist computers, which typically have tec diving features, as the display is made big enough to monitor multiple tanks/multiple gasses at once.

Algorithms are intended to keep the risk of DCS to an acceptable level. These have continually evolved and validated over the years, and different models use different algorithms. Some dive computers even have multiple algorithms (Like Oceanic’s Dual Algorithm) for divers to choose from, should they want to be more or less conservative with their diving. Brands can differ substantially on their algorithms, especially when calculating the second dive for a diver, as surface intervals impact algorithms differently. For this reason, it is imperative that every diver have their own computer, and that the group or dive pair follow the most conservative computer to prevent risk and “lock out”. A dive computer will “lock out” a diver if they have “blown their profile”, such as when they skip a deco stop. Air integrated models use an algorithm to calculate air consumption rates for “ATR”, but when one refers to a dive computer’s algorithm, they are typically referencing the algorithm associated with theoretical nitrogen absorption.

It should be noted that the dive computer is working theoretically, everyone’s body and condition pre-dive effect their nitrogen in-gassing/off-gassing, and that multiple factors, such as BMI, hydration, level of exhaustion, and other physical factors impact how one’s body handles nitrogen accumulation. The level of exertion on the dive can also impact this factor. Every diver should read their dive computer manual before using it, and understand its limitations.

As these are digital items, they all need batteries to run them. Some are rechargeable, whilst others are not. If the battery is not rechargeable, then it is wise to find the cost of a battery change before. Some are user replaceable, whereas others may need to be sent away by a specialist to change. If user replaceable, this could cost as little as $5, whereas others which require a specialist may be +$100, and can put the diver in a bind if they are somewhere remote and their computer dies.

Battery life is also important, especially for rechargeable batteries. If a computer only has a battery life to last 10 dives, this can be a problem in remote locations or on liveaboards if the diver has no way to recharge the battery.

Having the ability to transfer dive data to computers can help divers analyse their profiles, track their dive history, and if there were a medical emergency, help decompression chambers and other medical staff decide on the best course of action. This can also help decrease the liability of dive guides and dive shops by having a record of dive history. The software associated with downloads can give great visual representations of depths, dive times, and help divers improve their skills and understanding. Measuring air consumption against water temperature, whilst analysing different thermal wear used, for instance, can help divers determine how to get the most out of their dives. Some computers can even measure a diver’s heart rate if they wanted to see how their air consumption was effected by their physical effort on the dive.  There are some that even work via Bluetooth, removing the need for cables.

This can also be of value when the diver will exceed the built-in memory of the dive computer. Models vary on how many dives they can hold, and being able to download the data allows the diver to save a digital copy when the computer reaches its capacity.

This is a 240 g/m² ridge weave brushed nylon lycra with UV 50+ treatment, providing the ultimate 4 way freedom of movement, controlled core temperature regulation, and soft touch anti-chaffing.

This material is found most often in the arms where a user is more active. These tops are great for kayaking, sailing, stand up paddleboarding, kitesurfing, and windsurfing where there is more upper torso movement. They are also effective for diving, as some models have fernotherm in the chest, to keep the user’s core warm.

Suits made for diving can handle compression at depth much better than other wetsuits. Some surfing and other watersports wetsuits can sacrifice this thermal property, using a cheaper, possibly more flexible, neoprene. As they are only meant to be used on the surface, the manufacturer can make the suit more cost-effective with the cheaper materials. For instance, OceanPro’s Rebel wetsuits have a greater “crush resistance”, continually insulating at depth.

Wetsuits made for diving are typically reinforced in the places that matter most. These areas are typically the knees and the shoulders. Shoulders have the straps of a diver’s equipment rubbing against the suit. Kneepads help protect the suit should the diver need to kneel on the bottom of the ocean floor to exercise skills with an instructor. Some, like the Rebel 5mm and 7mm, reinforce the seat as well, for those longer boat rides, tender drops, and gear removal/replacement whilst sitting. The Rebel suits use a Supatex reinforcement in these areas, as well as the elbows. The Bare Reactive and Evoke models use a material called Armor Flex 2.0 in their kneepads, which is highly flexible, durable, and abrasion resistant.

The Aqua Trek 1 is designed specifically for Australian diving. It is lightweight, and actually a quadlaminate, as it has 4 materials versus the typical 3 in trilaminates. The materials in the suit offer enhanced flexibility over other current butyl trilaminates, built with an outer layer of cordura for toughness.

Something unique in this suit is its hydrostatic membrane. This layer allows the suit to breathe out of the water, with the water pressure upon submersion sealing off the membrane, keeping the suit completely dry on the inside. The benefit of this is that the diver is less likely to overheat on the surface. Bear in mind, this is dependent on what the diver is wearing underneath the drysuit. Due to this breathability, this suit is much more versatile, even for warmer water, than other drysuits.

M Padz knee protection offer 2mm neoprene padding added to the knees. This offers greater protection for an area which tends to get a lot of wear, whether that is kneeling on the bottom or through kicking motions.

There are also two self-draining pockets with stainless steel attachment points on the inside. These are great for spare masks, SMBs, camera accessories, or storing a diver’s hoods/gloves between dives.

There is a neoprene sock attached to the suit which can be used with traditional boots, but most people prefer using the lace-up boots.

There is a diagonal front zip for easy donning and easy in/out. Some other drysuits have a zip along the back, making it nearly impossible for someone to get in/out on their own. By having the diagonal front zip, the diver can be more independent in their gear setup, as it is self-donning. This is also a T-zip, made of nylon. This makes the suit more lightweight, and the zipper more flexible. Because it is made of nylon, it is corrosion-proof, and still water tight. These features make the zip more durable than traditional brass zips.

There is a 2mm nylon/smoothskin warm collar with a vented neck drain, providing an improved seal with the Bare dry hood.

This suit is equipped with Si-Tech replaceable silicon neck +wrist seals. The benefit of these are that they are field replaceable, and cheaper to replace than seals built in. Because they are made of silicon, they have some advantages over latex, in that they don’t break down with UV light or heat, they last for much longer, and many divers find them more comfortable.

There are Si-Tech manual auto shoulder dumps and an inflation button for easy, reliable air control.

Within the suit are bracers/suspenders, with four anchor points for extra attachment strength, and this enables comfort to the diver between dives when they can remove their top.

The telescopic torso fits the contours of the diver’s body better than other drysuits, which look much baggier with bigger air spaces for air to get trapped. There is also internal double seam tape construction at “critical wear” seam points for added durability. On the outside of the suit is external felled seam construction, increasing seam integrity, making it low profile, and less prone to abrasion. This also finishes for a clean look on the suit.

Each drysuit comes with a Bare drysuit bag, with optional extras being the Bare hood and boots.

Hoods come in a variety of materials, but are typically used for thermal protection. One exception would be a lycra hood for UV and stinger protection. Hoods can make the greatest difference in fighting heat loss from extremities. They need to be tight enough to trap the water, but not too tight, restricting blood flow. Some come with a flange or collar to tuck underneath a wetsuit’s neck, helping mitigate the movement of water.

Socks are much like hoods, in that they come in a variety of materials, and are typically used for thermal protection. There are also lycra socks, and whilst these protect against UV and stingers, they also help prevent fin rub if a person is wearing full foot fins. By having a layer, any rubbing which could cause blisters is reduced with a layer in between.